Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom (2021) Samuel Goldwyn/Drama RT: 109 minutes No MPAA rating (some thematic elements) Director: Pawo Choyning Dorji Screenplay: Pawo Choyning Dorji Music: Hu Shuai Cinematography: Jigme Tenzing Release date: January 21, 2022 (US) Cast: Sherab Dorji, Ugyen Norbu Lhendup, Kelden Lhamo Gurung, Pem Zam, Sangay Lham, Chimi Dem, Kunzang Wangdi, Tshering Dorji, Sonam Tashi, Tsheri Zom, Dorji Om, Tsheri Zom. Spoken in Dzongkha w/English subtitles
Rating: *** ½
The experience of watching Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom is similar to that of its protagonist, a dissatisfied teacher sent to “the most remote school in the world” to complete his service to the Bhutanese government. Much like the urban dweller who finds himself in an outlying place cut off from modern civilization, the viewer is transported to a quiet place far from the sound and fury of mainstream movies more apt to assault the senses than touch the soul. For this reason, it’s unlikely Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom will have mass appeal. Audiences used to action and instant gratification will likely find it too quiet and contemplative for their tastes. Too bad, they’ll be missing out on one outstanding film.
Let me give you a little background on Bhutan, a landlocked country situated between China and India in the Eastern Himalayas. Bhutan is often regarded as “the happiest place in the world”. Instead of gross national product, they adhere to a policy of “gross national happiness” which emphasizes balance in all things, education being a top priority. Government service is mandatory for all citizens. Teachers are required to serve for five years minimum. They have to go where the Ministry of Education sends them, no exceptions. Now that you know this, let’s continue with the review.
Ugyen (Sherab Dorji), who lives with his grandmother in the capital city of Thimpu, has what’s commonly known as a bad attitude. It shows in his poor job performance and the general indifference he displays. He has one year left on his contract and just wants to get it over with so he can move to Australia to pursue his dream of being a famous singer. Noting his poor attitude, a Ministry official assigns him to a post in Lunana, an isolated village high up (4800 meters to be exact) in the Himalayas, population 56. The only way up there is on foot and it’s a week-long hike, uphill at the way.
From the start, Ugyen is rude and standoffish to his guides Michen (Lhendup) and Singye (Tshering Dorji). He basically ignores them, refusing to engage and only barely acknowledging their presence. He stays plugged into his iPod until the batteries finally run out. As they near their destination, they’re greeted by the entire village eager to welcome their new teacher to the fold. The children, led by “class captain” Pen Zam (as herself), are especially jazzed. They’re ready and excited to learn. Ugyen doesn’t exactly share their enthusiasm.
When he finally makes it to Lunana, he doesn’t like what he sees. It’s a yak-herding village populated by simple yak-herders with little to no knowledge of the world beyond the mountains. No electricity, no internet and no WiFi. The school, essentially a hut, lacks the basic essentials- e.g. paper, pencils and a blackboard. His new temporary home isn’t much to look at either; it doesn’t even have indoor plumbing. He’s ready to turn around and go back home right then and there. The village chief (Wangdi) tells him it’ll take a week for that to happen, so he may as well make the best of the situation until then.
Predictably, Ugyen decides to stick around until it’s time to leave ahead of winter. Unplugged from the distractions of city life and social media, he begins to appreciate the world around him. The serene simplicity of life in Lunana gives him a new outlook on life. He makes an effort to learn their ways and connect with others like Saldon (Gurung), an attractive female yak herder who can always be heard singing. At one point, she gifts him with a yak named Norbu (it means “wish-fulfilling jewel”) for his classroom. Yaks are important here. They’re essential to the inhabitants’ way of life. They provide food and milk; their dried dung serves as fuel for heat. They’re vital for their spiritual well-being as well.
One of this year’s Best International Feature nominees, Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom is the first Bhutanese film to be so honored and only the second to be submitted for consideration (the first was 1999’s The Cup). It is, in a word, magnificent. As much as any of the human actors, the natural world plays a crucial role in Ugyen’s story thanks to the gorgeous cinematography by Jigme Tenzing. The breathtaking scenery is a much greater spectacle than any CGI-rendered action scene in whatever megabudget movie happens to be topping the box office charts at the moment. The tall mountains surrounding Lunana are majestic and humbling. It’s a reminder that Ugyen- and by extension, every one of us- is only a part of a much bigger design. The quietude easily drowns out the noise and worries of the world far below. The sounds of birds and folk songs being sung blend seamlessly with the silence.
Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom has a naturalistic feel to it. Most of the cast aren’t even professional actors. Writer-director Pawo Choyning Dorji, making a stunning debut here, took his crew to Lunana and hired locals to play supporting roles. Many of them never even saw a camera before. This is why they all look and feel natural. If there’s a star in the bunch, it’s 9YO Pen Zam. This kid has genuine presence, boundless energy and a smile that lights up the darkest room. One thing she’s not is cloying. She’s just being herself and that’s awesome. Sherab Dorji is very good as Ugyen who goes from being an apathetic, arrogant dick to finding his humanity. Asa result of his time in Lunana, he learns to live rather than simply exist. His character evolution feels real and genuine. It’s easy to forget it’s a performance. He has nice chemistry with Gurung too.
There’s plenty of humor and joy to be found in Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom as well. A scene where Ugyen and his students dance and sing in a circle while he plays his guitar is very joyful. It’s also a sweet movie as the protagonist learns the value of selflessness. Its positive message makes it an ideal film to introduce young film enthusiasts to international cinema. Nothing about it is even remotely offensive. It’ll also show children (and many adults) a side of life they’ve never seen for themselves. I can’t praise this remarkable film enough.
